Say I sculpted my own version of for example a crude Orc sword with a hand attached for purposes of converting miniatures, what methods exist for making a cast and subsequent moulds of this?

I for example want to convert some Uruk Scouts into Mordor Uruks. I sculpt myself an orc sword and hand to transplant onto the weapon hands of the Scout models, what equipment and materials would you need to do this?

instant mould (ebay) for casting the mould and then green-stuff/milliput for replicating the piece I'd quite like to see how it turns out if you have sculpted a hand and weapon already, I wish I could design my own weapons!

got a link to the mould things on ebay, please?

indeed:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281150995004? ... 1423.l2649

Sculpting a full model is impossible for me at the moment but sculpting a hand from bits of sprue/scrap metal bits/green stuff is probably quite doable so I was going to try it out.

so would i have to take a mould of both sides then? Im new to moulds so thanks in advance...

I assume you'd have to put a lump of green stuff in it....and use gravity/force to push the 2 sides together and then take it out, and carve off the bad stuff?

guess so just in need of tips then gunna order some, cant wait to see your weapons...

In my experience, instantmold isn't very good for two part molds. I think I'd be more inclined to use a proper casting latex for the mold, and make the pieces in resin.

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how would the instant mould work then because it would have one flat side to it so for a weapon it wouldnt work

You can wrap the mould around a 3d object and press hard so that it is totally concealed and then leave it to set. Once set, cut the object out with a craft knife and you have a 2-part mould. Admittedly 1 sided objects like casualties are alot easier to do and make for good practice

You can just wrap the IM around and slice it open to get at it once its set - cut it vertically and you will still have it all in one remouldable piece.

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http://www.one-ring.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=25957&p=325932#p325932

If you do become confident enough to cast your own minis, try this guide to home casting: http://www.one-ring.co.uk/kb.php?a=149

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Instead of Instant Mold I would suggest using polymorph. It is effectively the same material in a raw form and without any brand name attached to it.
Oh, I forgot. It is much much cheaper. Example:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500g-17-6oz-F ... 27c279e9ea
On the other hand, press-molding methods aren't good enough for copying and reproducing crisp details. You should consider delving into resin casting with 2-part silicon rubber molds. The above link is a good place to start. Also there are many videos in the youtube that could help you...

I didn't recommend it! Personally, I find it useful for casting shields, faces, other things you can make a "press" mold with. Pressing the two parts together around a piece of greenstuff doesn't give very good results, but I suppose that does depend on how exacting your standards are.
If wanting to cast something 3D, as per my earlier post and a few other people's advice, the best idea is to use a proper silicone 2 part mold.

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Sorry, I am a bit late.
The best way is a silicone mold. 2 part would be best.
However because of the expense I do not make silicone molds unless I need a hundred or more parts cast.
I am going to recommend the instant mold.
Here is a U tube clip from my friend Travis at Cool Min or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub70AU5RfmI

The trick to make a press mold with two sides is a clamp. Take two small blocks of hardboard or MDFB and a pair of vice grips. Fold the instant mold a round the part and quickly clamp it. You have to be fast. But that is the best way to make a few small parts. The mold will look like a book. If it is not flexible enough cut it into two parts. Place the green stuff into the press mold and clamp it. Wait for the ribbon epoxy to set. Then trim the flash.

I have a Smooth On retailer near by so I most often use Mold Star 15 Slow silicon rubber. I do not have a vacuum chamber so I use the slow so more air bubbles can escape as it cures. It is 1a/1b by volume so I don't have to use my scale. I have used some of the clear products but they really need a vacuum chamber. So I will wait till I build one before I use them again.

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ok thanks for tips and video, will have a little mess when i come to needing mumak parts like tusks... and thanks for video, do you think thank the blue strips will be ok for this?

Be easier surely to just make tusks from putty. All you need do is roll out a long sausage applying more pressure at one end to make it thinner into a point. Then just bend it to the correct curvature and allow to set

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i tried, and this will sound dumb... but it went floppy and if i left it on a hard surface once cured it went flat on one side? I really am no pro at this in any way shape or form
(sorry for post-jacking)

The trick is to use a hard putty such as milliputt. That way you can file it off a bit to get rid of the flatter side.

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